May 31, 2012

Put Some Back in That Denim

There's a reason why jeans remain a fashion staple, as well as a part of the American culture -- the right pair will make anyone look and feel long, lean and they go with just about anything. But there's a method to choosing the right jeans for your body, and jeans that look adorable on the rack may not be flattering once you put them on. Knowing your body and how to find the right pair of jeans for you will make the difference between wearing your jeans and rocking your jeans.


Each body type has its own special requirements for garments to help achieve the well-proportioned look that people yearn for. The cut of a jean, as well as the style and use of features like pockets, embellishments or wash, can make denim an asset or a liability to your wardrobe.


A great pair of jeans should do two main things: fit and flatter. If your jeans are killing you, they don't fit -- and they probably don't flatter, either.

There is such a thing as too comfortable, though, when it comes to denim. Denim isn't loungewear; it leaves the house. A perfect pair of jeans hugs your curves, holds you in and makes your legs look longer, butt higher and thighs leaner. Ideally, good jeans make you want to strut.

Denim for Petites
Deal Breakers
Jeans too tight around the hips will flatten your backside. Too loose at the waistband, and everyone will know you shop at Victoria's Secret. Too long and you'll look like you're playing dress-up.

Besides an obviously bad fit, pay attention to pocket placement. If you have an ample bottom, don't draw attention to it with large pockets emblazoned with embroidery and bling. Instead, search for back pockets sewn just above the mid-cheek mark; the strategic placement makes the entire area a bit perkier on a petite frame. Or, if you're on the lean side, try using a buttoned pocket flap to build mass.
Cropped jeans with hems that hit between the knee and ankle were once a deal-breaker for petite women, but it looks like that's all starting to change. We especially like what "The Petite Handbook" has to say about cropped denim: Wear shoes the same hue as the pant to add length to your legs.

Shape Makers Before you force your jeans to make a mass exodus based on our advice, salvage the shape-makers. These jeans will have a dark wash, which is slimming and lengthening.

And, consult your "What Not to Wear" bible: One of the best styles for petites is a straight cut. This means the jean falls straight down from the knee to the floor, and this strong vertical line creates a long, lean look. A trouser cut's another option, especially if you're shaped more like an apple than a pear; this cut fits from the widest part of the hip and goes straight to the floor, adding balance.
Don't slip into a skinny jean unless your legs are long (relative to your height) and you're built like a Jonas Brother. Skinny jeans call attention to the hip, thigh and bottom -- and could result in a "What Not To Wear" intervention.

When it comes to shorts, if you're petite, go cuff-less. Otherwise, the extra flap of fabric will add bulk and interrupt the visual line of your leg. And find a length that hits just above the knee. It's a universally flattering fit.

Fit Finders We will, however, need to file a report if we find you shopping in the juniors' section. You are woman. You roar. And you certainly do not hit the juniors' racks to find jeans that'll perfectly complement your petite self.

Don't fret if you find jeans that meet your new criteria but are way too long. That's why you have friends who can sew. Or, it's a good reason to get chummy with the local tailor. Make sure the jeans fit through the hips (remember what we said about pancake booty?) and thighs. Ideally, they'll also fit at the waist. If not, you can alter that, too.

If your jean hems drag the floor, ask a tailor to trim the extra fabric and then reattach the the original hemline. Doing so will perfectly camouflage your revisions and remove the rarest of animals -- jeans that fit at the waist and hips with just the right cut and length -- from the clothing endangered species list.

Once you figure out which styles flatter your petite shape the best, you're sure to find your new "go to" jeans.


Denim for No Curves
So, dressing your boyish figure is tricky -- but never fear, it's not impossible. In fact, you can easily pull off a lot of different looks. For example, the stylish skinny jean is definitely a possibility worth trying. Any pant with a more tapered leg will create a curvier look for your hips and thighs.

When you've got a more rectangular figure, getting your hips and waist to like the same pair of jeans can be a struggle. You can take some of the guesswork out of the equation by picking the right type of waistband. Jeans usually come with either a straight-across or a curved waist. Those with a more athletic figure should stick with the straight-across style, as curved waistbands can be uncomfortable and prone to gapping. Depending on whether your height is primarily in your legs or torso, lower rises or high-waisted styles can also work for you. A lower-rise jean that hits close to the hip's widest point will play up your figure and elongate your torso. A high-waisted pant, on the other hand, will give the impression of longer legs and draw attention to your natural waist. Either way, you're highlighting the curves you do have.

Flared and wide-leg jeans are also options worth trying. Flared (or bootleg) jeans balance out the hips to create more of an hourglass figure. Wide-legged pants that fall straight from the hip use your boyish figure to advantage -- just make sure the jeans are tailored as opposed to baggy. The latter will simply look oversized and frumpy, but wide-legged pants can lend a sleek and sophisticated air to your ensemble.

Quirky details are also an option for straight figures. If you're looking to add volume to your rear, try back pockets that have flaps or other embellishment. Interesting details like sailor-style buttons bring the focus up to the hip, giving the illusion of bigger curves. Fading or whiskering on the thighs can also amp up your figure. These are all fun ways to add individuality to your jeans and definition to your frame.


Denim for Pear Shapes
Dressing well is all about playing with style and proportion to draw attention to the features you want to emphasize, and camouflaging the problem areas. Keep these tips in mind when shopping for a pair of jeans to turn your pear shape into perfection.



  • Look for a dark and even wash with a slight stretch. Avoid light color washes or styles with fading or "whiskering" around the hips or rear, because these accents call attention to the areas you want to downplay.
  • Choose denim styles that flow fully through the hip and thighs, such as boot-cut styles. The slight flare at the hemline will help balance out your hips. Trouser styles that snug through the hips and then wider through the legs are also very flattering.
  • Keep the details simple. Avoid small back pockets that can make the behind look bigger. Choose medium-sized pockets that angle slightly toward the center and are placed a bit higher than mid-cheek to help make the rear look perkier.
  • Look for a contoured waistband that starts higher in the back above your bottom and dips down in the front helps shape a curvy bottom and prevents fabric from bagging at the crotch.
  • Search for a fit that skims rather than hugs your legs. However, a fit that's too full can make your legs look larger than they really are.
  • Find a style with an outseam further towards the front to give the illusion of thinner thighs.
Denim for Plus Fit
A great pair of jeans should do two main things: fit and flatter. If your jeans are killing you, they don't fit -- and they probably don't flatter, either.
There is such a thing as too comfortable, though, when it comes to denim. Denim isn't loungewear; it leaves the house. A perfect pair of jeans hugs your curves, holds you in and makes your legs look longer, butt higher and thighs leaner. Ideally, good jeans make you want to strut.
Specifically, plus-size jeans fit and flatter if they:

  • Sit at the waist; low-rise jeans tend to muffin-top everyone above a fashion-model size.
  • Are snug in the waist so they don't gape in the back or slide halfway down your butt when you sit down. But they're not tight. If you ooze out over the waistline, size up. Taking in is easier than taking out.
  • Are comfy in the butt and thighs, so you can move and sit easily. But they're not baggy -- baggy jeans make curvy women look larger than they really are. Jeans should skim your curves, not squeeze them or hide them.
These straightforward fit guidelines, while fairly essential in a plus-size fit, are really just the foundation. As most women know, there are some handy tricks that can lengthen and slim. Some of the most effective ones are:
  • Color: The simplest way to slim is to go dark. The darker the jeans, the thinner I'll look in them. Black is your friend. So is dark wash.
  • Fading: Some strategic fading, specifically a light, vertical fade down the center of the thighs, can make your legs looks longer. Avoid "whiskering" at the hips or any horizontal fading, which makes people look wider.
  • Contouring: Well-placed seams between the waist and the hips can accentuate curves and make the waist look smaller. Curving or diagonal seams work best.
  • Balance: For real women, the final word in looking great has to be "balance." In jeans, that typically centers on the leg opening, which should balance out the hips, thighs and butt. The wider the bottom of the leg, the smaller you look at the top. Bootcut is good for balancing; flared or wide is even better.

Denim for Inverted Triangle
The inverted triangle describes a body type with broad shoulders, narrow hips and a straight waist.

While this shape is popular for gracing fashion runways, it's the least common body type in women, which can make it a little challenging to find just the right jeans. It's well worth the effort, though -- a pair of jeans that hugs your curves in all the right places will make you feel like you're ready for the catwalk yourself.

So what, exactly, should the perfect jeans do for your body? First of all, they should accentuate those petite hips and slender legs. They should also add definition to your waist and create a fuller look for your rear end. For inverted triangles, it's not about hiding what you have -- it's about making the most of your natural assets. The right jeans will have features to help you do just that.

Pockets are one tool in your beauty arsenal. Medium-sized patch pockets that are placed on the largest part of the derriere will create more fullness. Side pockets can help accentuate your hips, and cargo-style pockets work well for the inverted triangle shape, too.

Embellishments and washes in just the right spots can create a more curvy appearance, as well. A lighter wash down the center of the front and back of the thigh will add fullness to slim legs, and pocket embellishments will do the same for your backside.

The cut of the jeans is very important for showing off your shape. Jeans that are mildly tapered to the knee and then have a slight flare at the bottom can give you more of an hourglass shape. Jeans with a rear yoke (the section of fabric below the waistband) will accentuate your bottom, and jeans with a low rise and a contoured waistline highlight your hips and define your waist.



Keep in mind
Jeans with a price tag of less than $50 are made for the masses; you'll have to try many pairs to find just the right fit. But thanks to a simple, bling-free finish, these jeans are budget-friendly and versatile. If you need each article of clothing to serve multiple roles in your wardrobe, stick with a classic indigo wash rather than trendy enzyme or acid washes.

Once you enter the $100-plus range, manufacturers start piling on the details. If you're not careful, your jeans could say a little too much about you, thanks to ornate stitching and flashy rhinestones. If you're willing to spend more than $200 on your denim, it's a safe bet you'll pair jeans with a Coach purse or Fendi scarf, so watch for labels you'll be proud to tote. If you're spending several hundred dollars, accept nothing less than a custom, shape retaining fit. Top-tier manufacturer Borelli, for example, adds a touch of bi-directional stretch to its denim.

Get that back in that demin right at all costs, 'cause it's back and it's big!

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